Growing Lemongrass from Stalk

Recently I tried making a lemongrass cooler at home and it turned out refreshing. I also learned that I could easily grow my own batch of lemongrass with the store-bought stalks.

I took 2 stalks, chopped off the green leaves, and removed the tough outer layers of the stalk without damaging the root. These I kept in a glass filled with 2 inches of water which I changed everyday.

Within a week, the stalks started sprouting some roots which made me very happy. I then planted it in soil. In another 10 days it started sprouting baby stalks from the old stalks. I was ecstatic. I would be making a batch of lemongrass cooler in another 2 weeks with home-grown produce.

One thing I failed to consider though was my cat. I would have assumed that citrus would repel him but apparently Lemongrass has a catnip-like effect on most cats. Who knew?

I'm still hoping that some more sprouts appear. I can keep it out of kitty reach for it to grow enough to accommodate both our needs. Or it will be back to square one.

Schwetzingen Palace Gardens

We reached the castle (around an hour's drive from Heidelberg) around 5 in the evening. We were told that the evening tickets are for minimal prices but would just let you in the garden, not the castle. We later found out that the interiors are not the highlight of the place at all. Moreover, the gardens have enough to keep you occupied for the day, or you could just take a quiet stroll with the music of the birds lingering in the air.

Schwetzingen was the summer residence of the Electors Palatine Karl III Philip and Charles Theodore. This hunting lodge was transformed into a luxurious summer residence with elaborate gardens. It was originally built around 1350, but the alterations as we see them now began around 1697.

There are numerous sections of the garden - from the Turkish gardens with a mosque (for decorative purposes only), to a bath house, and an aviary just to name a few. Many statues and water fountains dot the magnificent garden and there is even a hedge maze for those who don't mind getting lost.

Nicolas de Pigage built the mosque with its central building, the two minarets and prayer courses in 1779. The interior of the mosque consists of a circular central space, which is divided by columns and niches. Inscriptions in Arabic and German language refer to virtues such as wisdom, diligence and discretion. All Arab texts have errors in the dotting of the consonants and the vocalization - a failure of the German mason. It is testimony to the then prevailing interest in the Arab world. It was not built for the purpose of religion but as evidence of tolerance of the enlightened owner Carl Theodor.

Pigage proposed to build the Temple of Mercury in the form of a romantic ruin, as a counterpart to the mosque.Construction began in 1784 - the latest structure in the Schwetzingen palace gardens. Like all other buildings, the Temple of Mercury has multiple meanings: it is a temple, but as a ruin is also reminiscent of a grave, reminding us of the transient nature of life. 

The gardens are dotted with sculptures depicting various themes, from hunting to figures from mythology. Around 86 figures from sandstone, marble or lead have been preserved within the grounds.



The hunting of stags is the theme of the great figures of deer fountain basins in the garden. Artist Peter Anton von Verschaffelt created the powerful figures as a reminder of the origins of the castle. The ones in the garden are only copies though. The originals are kept inside the castle in the Orangerie.

There's a cafe near the entrance but it closes early, so bring plenty of water and some snacks if you plan to stay for a while. Stay off the grass as a general rule and take plenty of breaks on the many benches, even if just to admire the surroundings.

We spent around 3 hours here and hadn't covered even half the grounds.It is easy to lose track of time here.

Danube River God by Peter Anton von Verschaffelt.

Heidelberg - Philosophenweg and Neckar Cruise

In August, the weather in Heidelberg is quite pleasant with the temperature hovering around 20 degrees Celsius in the daytime. But we realised it can still be hot enough if you have to go for a walk. We took plenty of water the day we decided to walk the Philosopher's Way trail.

Apparently, professors and philosophers from the university nearby used to walk here often, drawing inspiration from the solitude and splendid views of the town.

We walked up a gradual slope and reached a small but colourful garden that offers panoramic views of the Old Town. There are plenty of sites to see along the way - old building, vineyards, flora, some fauna, maybe some large lizards.

The small garden is a good place to catch you breath and take in the scenic beauty the place has to offer. Also in the garden is a memorial stone to Joseph von Eichendorff, a romantic poet who studied in Heidelberg in 1807.

The trail continues for about 3 kms, but we took the exit via the Snake Path (so called because of the narrow, winding lane that leads to the river).

There are also some 'Insect Hotels' you will see here and other places around town. It is basically a small stand made of untreated wood with many drilled holes for insects to hibernate and breed. This is especially helpful since many natural forests here are heavily guarded against pests and diseases, leaving the insect population especially bees and wasps, out in the cold.

Later in the evening, we had booked a short cruise on the river, and since the 400th anniversary celebrations were on full swing, there would also be a fireworks display at the end of the tour. We boarded the cruise boat and got a front seat. If you don't want to be stuck inside the cabin with limited views, get there early and bring a warm jacket. It wasn't cold to begin with but it got pretty chilly by the time we got off.

The cruise offers stunning scenic views of forests and homes surrounded by nature. It was an hour long gentle cruise, and by the time we got back it was starting to get dark. Normally you'd alight the boat, but we were there at the front lines for the fireworks as well. Those lucky enough to have homes on the riverfront were out in their balconies, and the rest were lined up along the river with their picnic baskets and beer.

There was another fireworks display the next day as well, but we were in the car on the bridge. We saw some of the cars slowing down so we pulled over for a while as well. With that, the weekend celebrations ended, but there was still plenty more to do.

Antler Project

Deer shed their antlers or lose them in territorial fights so it is quite common to find one lying around where there are herds of them.

This particular one had been at my parents' home for a decade and when I brought it home I felt that the natural tone just blended in and wasn't noticeable. It needed some punch. After a quick browsing of colour palettes, I settled on Payne's grey, magenta, and gold in acrylic. I found bottled colours easier to apply than spray paint. 

I used masking tape to demarcate the colours but because of the ridges on the antler there were small gaps because of which some colour leaked through. Don't worry too much. After the paint dries, just touch up the lines with a fine brush. I used 3 to 4 coats of paint. Remember to wait overnight for the paint to dry before removing the tape and applying it to another painted area.

Idyllic Heidelberg - Getting There

My sister's been studying in Heidelberg University for a year now, and before winter set in, we wanted to visit. There isn't a lot to do or see within the small city and that suited us just fine. It would be a relaxing trip.

The visa process wasn't as drawn out as long as we had all the paperwork. Since we were staying with my sister, we needed a letter (emailed) from her stating that, the dates we would be there, and her contact details along with a copy of her student visa. We were going to Paris after that for 4 days, but since the main reason for visiting was to meet my sister in Germany, we applied at the German embassy.

We also needed confirmed air tickets, insurance, and complete booked itinerary. For financial proof, my husband showed his bank account statements for the last 6 months (no minimum balance required as such but it helps to have a minimum of Rs 1lakh in credit), IT return form for last 3 years, salary slips for last 6 months, and a letter from his office stating he's been working with them and his leave for the travel period has been approved. The visa form is available for download online. I applied from Bombay and their helpline was readily available to clarify any doubts I had. I was told that I could collect the passports in 3 days, but when I drove all the way there in the pouring rain and peak traffic, I was told it wasn't ready to be collected as yet. This was a common occurrence as I found out later. Thankfully we had applied a month in advance and had time to spare unlike some in the line who were to leave the same evening and still hadn't gotten their passports back. The next day I called before setting out, and thankfully they told me it was ready for pick up. I only found out the visa had been approved after I got my passport....valid only for the dates of our travel, not a day more.

We had opted for Turkish Airlines since the direct flights had spiked their rates by over Rs 15,000 per ticket. But we found that it suited us because we could step out and stretch our legs and get into a cleaner, more modern flight from Istanbul to Frankfurt. All airlines have one of their oldest carriers and grouchy stewardesses on the India leg of the flight - but then again, they have good reason to. The flight had better leg room and only 3 seats in the middle row. The food and in-flight entertainment was also better than most other airlines.

We reached Frankfurt early in the morning and the immigration lines moved quickly. The lady at immigration was the friendliest we've ever come across, actually making time for small talk while going through the paperwork. Carry the invitation letter or hotel reservation for your stay, and return tickets to show at immigration. They might also ask to see how much cash you are carrying (they won't count it but will ask you to show it). The airport is huge and easy to get lost. Thankfully we had someone picking us up so we didn't have to navigate the bus or rail system.

The autobahn stretches out for miles, and it took us about 2 hours to reach Heidelberg. the weather was pleasant in August and in the quiet, scenic surroundings we didn't even feel the tiredness of the long journey. We quickly freshened up, picked up a picnic basket with some beer, grabbed some doner kebabs from a nearby restaurant, and walked to the Nekkar River picnic area just 10 minutes away by walk (but we took much longer stopping to admire the quaint houses with flowers overflowing from every balcony). We had the place all to ourselves that day.

Our apartment in Bombay faces the hill and apart form the screaming children we barely hear much noise (unless it's festival time and everyone has loudspeakers on full), but here, you could hear a pin drop. We had a restful sleep.

Sweating it out!

It is absolutely no consolation that there are places in this world with worse weather, or that there are people on the streets right here who have no choice but to be walking the streets in this heat while I am at home, with the option of switching on the AC. I don't like to switch on the AC in the day because then I don't feel like stepping out of the room for anything, and it's something I don't want to get too used to. But of course, most of the days my resolve dissolves with the heat and humidity. Right now it's about 32 deg C outside and a humidity level of over 66%. No matter how many times you shower, by the time you put on your clothes, you are drenched in sweat again.

I was talking to my Mom the other day and we were discussing how none of the months of the year offers any respite from uncomfortable weather these days. Summer is too hot; monsoon is too humid, damp and dirty; winter is too dry and not cool enough.

Weather patterns are changing everywhere and not for the best. Rains are delayed, or they come too soon, or too hard. Drought situations in some parts, floods in others.

Normal is not something you can classify any more. Normal doesn't exist.

All you need is love

Finally made a coloured Zentangle and moved on from the small squares. Rummy and Bing make an appearance as well.

UPDATE: Framed at it's new home!

Bangkok Diaries

Bangkok was my first holiday together with my husband even before we were married. My parents had been living there and we had gone to visit. However, while he was there, we were mostly outside of the city at Khao Yai National Park then Rayong. He didn't get to see much of the city (beside a mall or two). We had planned to go there someday but whenever the time came to plan a holiday, we looked for newer pastures.

Recently my parents returned to Bangkok for a week long holiday and just staying in the city - meeting people, getting massages, eating, and taking in the city. needless to say, we too, got tempted to do the same. I had not seen the city temples and Husband had not even seen the Grand Palace. Moreover, it is one of the few places were visas are on arrival making it convenient to take off without hassles.

So off we went. February was warmer than we had expected. If you don't have US Dollars already, get your currency exchanged for Thai Baht at your home country because there are no ATMs before you cross immigration and the exchange rates there are atrocious. Once outside, ATMs will charge 150 BHT per transaction so keep the use to a minimum. It makes sense to carry cash since street shops and some of the smaller shops will not accept cards...also some stores charge a surcharge (supposedly charged by the banks) of 2-5% on any card.

We reached early morning on a Saturday and headed to the nearest mall (MBK) for some food and retail therapy. The elevated rail is the most convenient way to travel. Tourists can get a pass for 300 BHT which gives you approximately 15 trips - you can then refill it as per your usage.

MBK is where everyone comes to shop for cheap deals on electronics, fake Rolexes, and even electronics apart from the usual apparel and accessories (BTS Siam then walk or change to National Stadium line for direct access). However, it has now become a tourist trap with hiked up prices and almost no bargaining. We found the same stuff at lower prices in other malls. The food choices are extensive here - a variety of cuisines all under one roof. We spent the whole day here getting a massage, eating, shopping, and winding up the day with a movie.

We decided to skip the Chatuchak weekend market the next day since it was too hot, and we realised that all the places previously known for cheaper deals were now more expensive than regular malls since tourists frequented them more often. Husband even insisted on going to the electronics mega mall - Pantip Plaza - and was shocked to find items at double the price with no scope of bargaining. Electronics in general we found were now more expensive in Thailand - a big change from when visitors used to take back mobile phones and big-screen TVs from here.

Instead, we slept in a bit then went to a gem store (courtesy one of the many almost-free cab rides you'll be asked for). There are numerous Chinese jewellery stores with glittering gold and diamonds on display, but they also have semi and precious stones. Silver is also popular. I had no way of knowing if the stones I bought were worth what I paid for them, but since it was a government-sanctioned store, I didn't worry about it too much.

In the evening, we went to Central World for dinner at Zense (midway BTS Siam and Chidlom). The outdoor seating provides a spectacular backdrop for a great meal. They serve fusion food like curried risotto, and tom yum pasta. The staff was friendly and we wanted to come back to the open-air bar/lounge if we had the time again (we couldn't find the time unfortunately).

We took a tuk-tuk from the station to the hotel, and it dazzled us with bright lights so late at night. Tuk-tuks don't by meter so you have to bargain with them, and most of the times you end up paying as much as or more than what a cab would cost.

 

Monday, we went to the Sukhumvit area (BTS Nana). This is the main business district and supposedly the posher part of town. If you stay in this area, there is always something to do even in the middle of the night. Husband wanted to get some linen shorts stitched so we went to Bangkok Fashions in Soi 11 as recommended by my parents. We liked their range of clothes and the final result was also great. They had one short ready in 2 days for trial, and the rest we picked up on Friday.

After that we went for a full-body massage at Baan Dalah Spa. It is located just you enter Soi 8, next to an Indian restaurant. Took us a while to find it as the sign was facing the other way. For just 1,000 BHT each, we got a 2-hour Thai massage with hot compress. The ambiance was serene and is one of the more respectable looking places here. What more can you ask for? Just ahead in the same lane is Via Vai - an Italian restaurant with good food and great a Tom Yum soup.

 

Tuesday, we had booked a tour to Kanchanaburi (famous for the Bridge on the River Kwai) and the Tiger Temple. We were to be picked up at 6:30 am and we were. The annoying part was that after the rest of the pick-ups, we were taken to their offices and re-divided into groups depending on location combinations. By the time we actually left the city, it was nearing 10am. 

We reached Kanchanaburi around noon. The JEATH War Museum is avoidable, although we did see this adorable stud there.

What was distressing was this majestic leopard tied to a post on a short leash (most likely drugged) - all to promote a zoo nearby. It didn't move much for the 2 hours we were around.

We were given some free time to explore the area on our own. Street food is highly recommended in Thailand and you'll get a choice of fresh fruits to fried meat, coconut water (always sweet and refreshing), and sweet and savoury crepes. These stalls came in very handy whenever we were on the move and didn't have time to stop for a quick snack.

The bridge at Kanchanaburi is picturesque although the crowds can get in the way of enjoying the view. It would probably not be worth the trip to just see this, unless you don't have anything better to do. We stopped here as it is on the way to the Tiger Temple.

  

Once we re-grouped, it took another hour to sort people in groups according to their onward journeys. We were grouped with those travelling by the train on the bridge. This wasn't part of our itinerary but we didn't have much of a choice but to follow. The train ride costs 100 BHT for the comfy seats - wooden benches in better shape than the regular ones. The journey takes about 2 hours - all to see a small portion of the original wooden bridge still in use. Given the heat and humidity, and the fact that we hadn't stopped for lunch, we were not very happy with this plan. 

As soon as we got off the train, we were pushed into a van again and taken to a small boat house restaurant. The buffet was basic fare, and cold. We ate because we were starving and didn't want to speculate if the dirty river water had been used in the cooking process. As soon as we were done, we were again packed into a van and taken to a waterfall nearby - Sai Yok Noi. There wasn't much water this time of the year, and given the fact that the Tiger Temple closes at 3:30pm, we needn't have stopped here. This just reinforced our natural dislike for organized tours and we were regretting not doing this trip on our own. (I had just gotten lazy and didn't plan the logistics, plus I thought since language can be a problem in these parts, a tour guide would be useful.)

We finally reached the Tiger Temple around 3 and had just about 40 minutes till the tigers would be in the public arena. When I had gone there 6 years ago, it was a serene place with barely any visitors. Now there was a very long queue. It took us 30 minutes to get into the canyon where the tigers were sprawled out in the afternoon sun. Many say that these tigers are drugged to make them docile. I didn't see any visible signs of sedatives - grogginess or disoriented behaviour. These are hand-reared creatures and used to human contact. Since they are at their laziest during the afternoon, they remain calm while visitors come to marvel at them. The monks and volunteers are around to calm a frisky tiger by playing with them on the side. Only those who have a calm disposition are brought out to meet their fans. the others remain within the confines of the monastery.

The campus houses other animals as well - such as cows, peacocks, pigs, horses, and bears.

This was our last stop and we finally reached our hotel around 8pm. It was a long and hot day after which we deserved a cold beer!

The next day we got up late and planned a day of malling. Megabangna is a newly-opened hyper-mall with over 800 shops under a single roof. Ikea was the reason we wanted to go there (BTS Udom Sok). The whole day wasn't enough to even just window-shop. There is a shuttle every hour to and from the Udom Sok BTS station. In the afternoon we were too early for it and took a cab instead of waiting for it. It costed us around 90 BHT.

 

By now you would've thought that we'd had enough of walking around. But we were not quite done yet. Thursday was the day for the temples and the Grand Palace.

We started relatively early in the day - around 9am. Our first stop was Wat Saket which wasn't too far from our hotel, so we just took a cab. There's no entry fee. As soon as you enter the compound, you feel the serenity. There are steps leading up to the main temple. It is a gradual incline but there a quite a few steps (300 approximately) so pace yourself. The temple houses a few Buddha idols but the main attraction is the Golden Mount or chedi/stupa on the terrace. It radiates in the sun and is a sight to behold.

Our next stop was to be Wat Pho but we couldn't find a cab outside the temple. There were many tuk-tuks offering to take visitors to their destinations for dubiously low price of 10 BHT. We knew there had to be a catch but we couldn't walk the 2 kms to the temple in the heat. We hopped on to the cab and as predicted, he said he will make one stop to a store on the pretext that as we browse, he will quickly fill gas in the vehicle. As we went in to another jewellry store, the driver sat outside eating strawberries! We got back on and were dropped at Wat Pho where we were told the fare was actually 10 BHT per person.

We were so relieved to see a vendor selling fresh coconut water. Thai coconut water is always sweet and such a great refresher in the humid weather. We also picked up some sliced mangoes.

The entry fee for the temple is 100 BHT. The 43 metre reclining Buddha is awe-inspiring. Within the complex, there are over 1,000 images of Buddha and it is worth having a look at all of them. The grounds also have stupas with intricate designs, marvelous to behold.

The Grand Palace is walking distance from the temple, although it didn't seem like it in the scorching heat. The entry fee of 500 BHT also covers the Vimanmek Mansion (located away from the Palace), and the coin museum (just outside the Palace), but we only had time for the Palace. Gates close at 4:30 pm so get there well before 2pm if you want to cover everything. No shorts or sleeveless attire allowed here - wraps are available to cover yourself up before you enter.

 

The architecture, materials (gold leaves, porcelain), murals (under restoration), history, and the Emerald Buddha are fascinating. An English-speaking guide available on hire at the entrance will give you the interesting tid-bits if you haven't read up on it already.

As we took a break near where the palace guards were stationed, we noticed this thirsty bird. We wished we could take a dip in the pool of water too.

Once we got out of the Palace, we needed to eat - soon. We were starving and the street food wasn't doing it for us. Now came the biggest tourist trap of all - no cab or tuk-tuk will take you anywhere unless you pay 3 times the price. If you walk for about 30 to 40 minutes away from the Palace, this will come down to double the price. We found a bus stop and someone who spoke English. There was an air-conditioned bus going our way for 20 BHT compared to the 300 BHT being asked by cabs.

Friday we took it easy. Just browsed Siam Center and Paragon - the high-end malls that are more for looking than buying, then picked up the stuff from the tailor. 

We had dinner at an old favourite of my parents - Big Mama's behind Robinson (Asok BTS). We fell in love with the pizza there.

On Saturday, we left early for the airport planning to get a final massage before boarding the flight. We had our last Thai meal at Mango tree finishing it off with mango with coconut rice. We browsed the stores, bought some booze to take home, then went for a massage before boarding.

It was a week well spent. Although, the city has changed much from what I remember of it. It is much more crowded for sure - from the airport to every attraction you visit on any day of the week. With global markets opening up, it is not necessarily the cheapest place to buy stuff - especially electronics. Although people were friendly and smiling, it didn't feel as welcoming as it used to be. Maybe my perspective changed over the years, or maybe Thailand's tourism department has done its job too well over the years. I felt the need for awareness on conservation and animal rights, and the urgent need to reduce waste and conserve energy. i hope they realise this before its too late.