Bangkok Diaries

Bangkok was my first holiday together with my husband even before we were married. My parents had been living there and we had gone to visit. However, while he was there, we were mostly outside of the city at Khao Yai National Park then Rayong. He didn't get to see much of the city (beside a mall or two). We had planned to go there someday but whenever the time came to plan a holiday, we looked for newer pastures.

Recently my parents returned to Bangkok for a week long holiday and just staying in the city - meeting people, getting massages, eating, and taking in the city. needless to say, we too, got tempted to do the same. I had not seen the city temples and Husband had not even seen the Grand Palace. Moreover, it is one of the few places were visas are on arrival making it convenient to take off without hassles.

So off we went. February was warmer than we had expected. If you don't have US Dollars already, get your currency exchanged for Thai Baht at your home country because there are no ATMs before you cross immigration and the exchange rates there are atrocious. Once outside, ATMs will charge 150 BHT per transaction so keep the use to a minimum. It makes sense to carry cash since street shops and some of the smaller shops will not accept cards...also some stores charge a surcharge (supposedly charged by the banks) of 2-5% on any card.

We reached early morning on a Saturday and headed to the nearest mall (MBK) for some food and retail therapy. The elevated rail is the most convenient way to travel. Tourists can get a pass for 300 BHT which gives you approximately 15 trips - you can then refill it as per your usage.

MBK is where everyone comes to shop for cheap deals on electronics, fake Rolexes, and even electronics apart from the usual apparel and accessories (BTS Siam then walk or change to National Stadium line for direct access). However, it has now become a tourist trap with hiked up prices and almost no bargaining. We found the same stuff at lower prices in other malls. The food choices are extensive here - a variety of cuisines all under one roof. We spent the whole day here getting a massage, eating, shopping, and winding up the day with a movie.

We decided to skip the Chatuchak weekend market the next day since it was too hot, and we realised that all the places previously known for cheaper deals were now more expensive than regular malls since tourists frequented them more often. Husband even insisted on going to the electronics mega mall - Pantip Plaza - and was shocked to find items at double the price with no scope of bargaining. Electronics in general we found were now more expensive in Thailand - a big change from when visitors used to take back mobile phones and big-screen TVs from here.

Instead, we slept in a bit then went to a gem store (courtesy one of the many almost-free cab rides you'll be asked for). There are numerous Chinese jewellery stores with glittering gold and diamonds on display, but they also have semi and precious stones. Silver is also popular. I had no way of knowing if the stones I bought were worth what I paid for them, but since it was a government-sanctioned store, I didn't worry about it too much.

In the evening, we went to Central World for dinner at Zense (midway BTS Siam and Chidlom). The outdoor seating provides a spectacular backdrop for a great meal. They serve fusion food like curried risotto, and tom yum pasta. The staff was friendly and we wanted to come back to the open-air bar/lounge if we had the time again (we couldn't find the time unfortunately).

We took a tuk-tuk from the station to the hotel, and it dazzled us with bright lights so late at night. Tuk-tuks don't by meter so you have to bargain with them, and most of the times you end up paying as much as or more than what a cab would cost.

 

Monday, we went to the Sukhumvit area (BTS Nana). This is the main business district and supposedly the posher part of town. If you stay in this area, there is always something to do even in the middle of the night. Husband wanted to get some linen shorts stitched so we went to Bangkok Fashions in Soi 11 as recommended by my parents. We liked their range of clothes and the final result was also great. They had one short ready in 2 days for trial, and the rest we picked up on Friday.

After that we went for a full-body massage at Baan Dalah Spa. It is located just you enter Soi 8, next to an Indian restaurant. Took us a while to find it as the sign was facing the other way. For just 1,000 BHT each, we got a 2-hour Thai massage with hot compress. The ambiance was serene and is one of the more respectable looking places here. What more can you ask for? Just ahead in the same lane is Via Vai - an Italian restaurant with good food and great a Tom Yum soup.

 

Tuesday, we had booked a tour to Kanchanaburi (famous for the Bridge on the River Kwai) and the Tiger Temple. We were to be picked up at 6:30 am and we were. The annoying part was that after the rest of the pick-ups, we were taken to their offices and re-divided into groups depending on location combinations. By the time we actually left the city, it was nearing 10am. 

We reached Kanchanaburi around noon. The JEATH War Museum is avoidable, although we did see this adorable stud there.

What was distressing was this majestic leopard tied to a post on a short leash (most likely drugged) - all to promote a zoo nearby. It didn't move much for the 2 hours we were around.

We were given some free time to explore the area on our own. Street food is highly recommended in Thailand and you'll get a choice of fresh fruits to fried meat, coconut water (always sweet and refreshing), and sweet and savoury crepes. These stalls came in very handy whenever we were on the move and didn't have time to stop for a quick snack.

The bridge at Kanchanaburi is picturesque although the crowds can get in the way of enjoying the view. It would probably not be worth the trip to just see this, unless you don't have anything better to do. We stopped here as it is on the way to the Tiger Temple.

  

Once we re-grouped, it took another hour to sort people in groups according to their onward journeys. We were grouped with those travelling by the train on the bridge. This wasn't part of our itinerary but we didn't have much of a choice but to follow. The train ride costs 100 BHT for the comfy seats - wooden benches in better shape than the regular ones. The journey takes about 2 hours - all to see a small portion of the original wooden bridge still in use. Given the heat and humidity, and the fact that we hadn't stopped for lunch, we were not very happy with this plan. 

As soon as we got off the train, we were pushed into a van again and taken to a small boat house restaurant. The buffet was basic fare, and cold. We ate because we were starving and didn't want to speculate if the dirty river water had been used in the cooking process. As soon as we were done, we were again packed into a van and taken to a waterfall nearby - Sai Yok Noi. There wasn't much water this time of the year, and given the fact that the Tiger Temple closes at 3:30pm, we needn't have stopped here. This just reinforced our natural dislike for organized tours and we were regretting not doing this trip on our own. (I had just gotten lazy and didn't plan the logistics, plus I thought since language can be a problem in these parts, a tour guide would be useful.)

We finally reached the Tiger Temple around 3 and had just about 40 minutes till the tigers would be in the public arena. When I had gone there 6 years ago, it was a serene place with barely any visitors. Now there was a very long queue. It took us 30 minutes to get into the canyon where the tigers were sprawled out in the afternoon sun. Many say that these tigers are drugged to make them docile. I didn't see any visible signs of sedatives - grogginess or disoriented behaviour. These are hand-reared creatures and used to human contact. Since they are at their laziest during the afternoon, they remain calm while visitors come to marvel at them. The monks and volunteers are around to calm a frisky tiger by playing with them on the side. Only those who have a calm disposition are brought out to meet their fans. the others remain within the confines of the monastery.

The campus houses other animals as well - such as cows, peacocks, pigs, horses, and bears.

This was our last stop and we finally reached our hotel around 8pm. It was a long and hot day after which we deserved a cold beer!

The next day we got up late and planned a day of malling. Megabangna is a newly-opened hyper-mall with over 800 shops under a single roof. Ikea was the reason we wanted to go there (BTS Udom Sok). The whole day wasn't enough to even just window-shop. There is a shuttle every hour to and from the Udom Sok BTS station. In the afternoon we were too early for it and took a cab instead of waiting for it. It costed us around 90 BHT.

 

By now you would've thought that we'd had enough of walking around. But we were not quite done yet. Thursday was the day for the temples and the Grand Palace.

We started relatively early in the day - around 9am. Our first stop was Wat Saket which wasn't too far from our hotel, so we just took a cab. There's no entry fee. As soon as you enter the compound, you feel the serenity. There are steps leading up to the main temple. It is a gradual incline but there a quite a few steps (300 approximately) so pace yourself. The temple houses a few Buddha idols but the main attraction is the Golden Mount or chedi/stupa on the terrace. It radiates in the sun and is a sight to behold.

Our next stop was to be Wat Pho but we couldn't find a cab outside the temple. There were many tuk-tuks offering to take visitors to their destinations for dubiously low price of 10 BHT. We knew there had to be a catch but we couldn't walk the 2 kms to the temple in the heat. We hopped on to the cab and as predicted, he said he will make one stop to a store on the pretext that as we browse, he will quickly fill gas in the vehicle. As we went in to another jewellry store, the driver sat outside eating strawberries! We got back on and were dropped at Wat Pho where we were told the fare was actually 10 BHT per person.

We were so relieved to see a vendor selling fresh coconut water. Thai coconut water is always sweet and such a great refresher in the humid weather. We also picked up some sliced mangoes.

The entry fee for the temple is 100 BHT. The 43 metre reclining Buddha is awe-inspiring. Within the complex, there are over 1,000 images of Buddha and it is worth having a look at all of them. The grounds also have stupas with intricate designs, marvelous to behold.

The Grand Palace is walking distance from the temple, although it didn't seem like it in the scorching heat. The entry fee of 500 BHT also covers the Vimanmek Mansion (located away from the Palace), and the coin museum (just outside the Palace), but we only had time for the Palace. Gates close at 4:30 pm so get there well before 2pm if you want to cover everything. No shorts or sleeveless attire allowed here - wraps are available to cover yourself up before you enter.

 

The architecture, materials (gold leaves, porcelain), murals (under restoration), history, and the Emerald Buddha are fascinating. An English-speaking guide available on hire at the entrance will give you the interesting tid-bits if you haven't read up on it already.

As we took a break near where the palace guards were stationed, we noticed this thirsty bird. We wished we could take a dip in the pool of water too.

Once we got out of the Palace, we needed to eat - soon. We were starving and the street food wasn't doing it for us. Now came the biggest tourist trap of all - no cab or tuk-tuk will take you anywhere unless you pay 3 times the price. If you walk for about 30 to 40 minutes away from the Palace, this will come down to double the price. We found a bus stop and someone who spoke English. There was an air-conditioned bus going our way for 20 BHT compared to the 300 BHT being asked by cabs.

Friday we took it easy. Just browsed Siam Center and Paragon - the high-end malls that are more for looking than buying, then picked up the stuff from the tailor. 

We had dinner at an old favourite of my parents - Big Mama's behind Robinson (Asok BTS). We fell in love with the pizza there.

On Saturday, we left early for the airport planning to get a final massage before boarding the flight. We had our last Thai meal at Mango tree finishing it off with mango with coconut rice. We browsed the stores, bought some booze to take home, then went for a massage before boarding.

It was a week well spent. Although, the city has changed much from what I remember of it. It is much more crowded for sure - from the airport to every attraction you visit on any day of the week. With global markets opening up, it is not necessarily the cheapest place to buy stuff - especially electronics. Although people were friendly and smiling, it didn't feel as welcoming as it used to be. Maybe my perspective changed over the years, or maybe Thailand's tourism department has done its job too well over the years. I felt the need for awareness on conservation and animal rights, and the urgent need to reduce waste and conserve energy. i hope they realise this before its too late.

Kala Ghoda Arts Festival 2013

The annual Kala Ghoda Arts Festival is here again in Bombay. We parked at the Flora Fountain island then went straight for lunch. We were starving. The Pantry had received good reviews and was close by. Thankfully, we didn't have to wait for a seat. It is a fresh little place in the corner with a laid back attitude. Not the kind to be prepared for the crowds flowing in. It took them over 40 minutes to get our order. The food was delicious though, so we couldn't begrudge them the time it took.

From there we walked up to the Prince of Wales museum currently exhibiting Mummies (from Egypt) on loan from The British Museum. It was great to see Indian museums coming up to world standards, and people from all walks of life interested in Egypt's fascinating history.

The next stop was Rampart Row where the main event is held. We unfortunately went on a Sunday afternoon. Security checks meant standing in a long queue on a warm day just to get in. Once inside, we realised that visiting any of the stalls was out of the question - you just couldn't make your way through to the counter without sustaining (and possibly inflicting) a few injuries. We decided to just have a look at all the installations. Another bad idea. People seemed to be obsessed about having their pictures taken with the art works, rather than of the art. The place was so crowded that we could barely make out where the installations were. We saw what we could and retreated.

We took refuge in The National Gallery of Modern Art's auditorium where a play was scheduled in an hour. Since my uncle was the lead in the play, we got permission to sit inside and take up the best seats, instead of waiting outside like the rest. "Aao tanik prem karen" was a peek into a couple's life after 30 years of marriage - the trials and tribulations of each, and finally an understanding between them. It was nice watching a play after a long time. There were of course those who decided to walk off during the play, mostly those sitting at the very end of the room so they had to shuffle to get out of their seats, obstruct the stage, then finally leave.

It was after 9pm when we stepped out of the theatre and the lights and crowd at Kala Ghoda were still going strong. That's Bombay. We had a quick bun-omelette from a roadside stall and washed it down with some sugarcane juice.

Having walked the whole day, our bodies were screaming for some rest. All-in-all, it was a day well-spent.

The ghoda - Haresh Mehta

Radical Garden by Anne-Marie Twigge

Tarevarchi Kasarat - Sonal Jadhav and Nikhil Borhade

‘Make Me Rich’ by Hetal Shukla. She wants people to know that “The starving artist syndrome is outdated, boring and uncool.” Today’s artists want “change”.

Procession, by Paresh Maity has ants made of motorcycle fuel tanks and headlights

A wasp by Vespa Scooters. Vespa means “Wasp” in Italian

‘Kapala's Totems’ by Sukant Panigrahy. One of seven totems placed through Kala Ghoda, this one, like the others, is made of waste material. It's not all skulls and bones though - the butterflies are a nod to our fragile ecosystem.

Where has all the etiquette gone?

Maybe it's the decreasing personal interactions, or just lack of sensitivity, but people now don't seem to have the time for basic civic responsibilities. To be fair, most are blissfully unaware of these responsibilities, even though the same people would expect the rest of the world to know and follow them.

Talking in the theatre and driving styles are whole different stories each. There are those who bring babies to late night shows when they are at their crankiest best, those that insist on bringing underage kids to adult movies, and of course those that can't stop passing "witty" remarks at every scene for the whole theatre to hear. In the words of Shepherd Book (and I paraphrase) - there is a special hell for these people.

People are now more cynical of even helping people who are in obvious and genuine need of help, case in point, when the victims of a brutal crime were left almost naked and seriously injured on the side of the road, no one stopped to call the police or even give them a piece of cloth to cover themselves.

We live in cities where people rarely return your smile even if you see them everyday, and people who won't hold the elevator for two extra seconds even when they see you running to get on. Eve teasing has become something women have to accept as a way of life. Holding open doors for people in need is a thing of the past. No matter what damage or inconvenience someone is causing the other, action will not be taken till they feel like it.

Children too are picking up on this. Adults go by the notion that children's actions are excusable just because they are children and don't understand anything. So, if a child playing in the main driveway runs into a car slowly backing up, the driver is put at fault. Not the parent who was busy chattering away while the child was running amok. It's alright if a child rips apart your plant, or damages something in someone else's house - because they're children. Apparently, so are their parents!

Many such minor episodes culminate to a higher level of apathy and cynicism. We have become wary of people asking for help. A security guard at our building who would always greet us, asked my husband for some money to treat his son for malaria. My husband said he'll pay for the treatment if he just shows us the blood report of the child. The report never showed up. The next time someone asks for money, with what faith would we give it to them?

At the end of the day, when it all gets too much, it helps to concentrate on the goodness of people, no matter how few and far between they are. Be watchful and grateful for the simple joys that creep into your life unnoticed. Because the new year will only bring you so much happiness as much as you bring to it.

And because I don't want to start the year's first blog post bitching about life, here's some cute.

Greetings for the new year

It's been so long that someone has sent an actual letter or postcard, that I felt I should send something out myself! I remember the excitement of getting mail in the mailbox, with cursive writing, maybe a little drawing at the side, and some doodles on fancy letter paper. Emails are a great way to keep in touch, but nothing beats the rare letter or greeting.

UPDATE:

Zentangle

Zentangle is structured doodling. That's the best way to describe it I guess. It was made popular by a couple and many use it to de-stress and for meditation. It is a great way to unwind after a long day. I keep a notepad next to my bed. The repetitive doodling puts you in a lulled state and helps me sleep when sleep is elusive.

It's quite easy to get started. The original concept asks for you to doodle within a 9x9cm square template, but this is no strict rule. The next step is to divide this box into sections. This could be a simple circle at one corner of the margin, or a more complicated division.

Now comes the interesting part. Fill in each section with a doodle pattern. There are various patterns available on the Internet if you get stuck. It can be as spaced or as intricate as you want. If something doesn't go exactly the way you want, do not erase or backtrack it. The whole idea is to let your hand and mind flow freely.

There are no mistakes - only happy accidents.

You can either keep it monochrome or add colour. This particular one I did on the computer. I still need to scan the ones I did by hand. Will update soon.

UPDATE: