Paris

The French, we have heard through ages, are very rude. That made us a bit apprehensive to travel to Paris but my research showed that if you just say hello and thank you at every given opportunity, you should be fine. And we were.

We arrived from Germany by train to Gare de l'Est and had to take the Metro to our hotel. The Metro connects from this terminus itself so you don't need to walk too far with your luggage. There were English speaking volunteers to help you negotiate your route with a helpful map of the city. The ticket vending machines seemed daunting at first, but were quite easy to use after your first try.

The trains were a little crowded so getting in and out with the luggage was problematic. Good we were travelling light(ish). Some stations do not have elevators or escalators so be prepared to carry your bags up and down some stairs.

We were staying at Le Relais Saint Charles which is literally just opposite the Dupliex Metro station which made life much simpler. The reception was manned at all hours with someone who spoke English, and since we were early, they kept our bags in storage and handed us a map to walk around till they got the room ready. We decided to have some lunch nearby in one of the many restaurants within walking distance.
The room was small (as you would expect in even more expensive places in the city) but very clean. To make most of the space, we emptied our bags in the closet and tucked away the suitcase so it didn't clutter. The room was clean and well maintained, but the view was of busy lanes and houses which was better than the opposite side where it would be noisy till late in the night with the pub crowd. We weren't planning to spend a lot of time inside so it suited us just fine.

The Eiffel Tower was just 15 to 20 minutes away on foot. That was our first stop. We could see the marvel in metal much before we reached the vicinity. The streets were relatively easy to navigate with our map. We hadn't booked the tickets to the tower beforehand because we weren't sure of the time we'd be there (the tickets are time-bound), so we had to get in line for over an hour. There are 4 ticket counters and one of them is only for people planning to walk up the stairs (DO NOT take that option no matter how fit you think you are - you will regret it). Even though it was late evening, the sun was scorching.

 We finally got in the elevator to take us to the 2nd level which offered marvellous views of the city. Take a walk about before heading on to the top. We came in at a good time - just around sunset. So we could see the city bathed in sunlight, then all lit up after sunset. The top of the tower was very crowded. Don't expect a romantic time here with all the shoving. We just took in the view and went down to the quieter 2nd level for a better experience.

 We decided to walk down from there and even that was exhausting. We saw people walking up and even the younger fit-looking ones were struggling to complete the trip. Once outside on the lawn, with the tower all lit up in golden light, we waited for the light show that happens every  hour after sunset - the tower sparkled like diamonds set in gold.

Throughout our stay here, we had a glimpse of the tower from different parts of the city. Although there is much to admire in Paris, the Eiffel Tower had a charm of its own, The garden around it plays host to many visitors and locals who come for a quick picnic. We tried, but were forced to retreat because of the heat.

We had dinner in one of the restaurants close to the tower - the advantage being that it was open till late (most places shut down by 9pm) and the menu is in English. Also, some of the Metro lines close by midnight - keep that in mind if you don't want to hail an expensive cab.

We took in the famous cabaret show at the Crazy Horse which was entertaining but exorbitant. We went in for the novelty but would not advise it as a must-visit. By the time the show finished, our line of the Metro had closed for the day. We were able to drag our selves on foot back to the hotel, and thanked our stars we hadn't gone to the Moulin Rouge which was much further away.

During the next 4 days were there, we seemed to just walk every waking moment. Walk to the sight, walk inside the sight, then walk to the next spot. There was so much history packed at every turn, so many places you felt you had to see, that we had to force ourselves to stick to the main spots this time, then return for the rest.

Rue Cler is a barely 100 metre stretch of a street filled with interesting shops. It is where many locals shop for their daily meals. Apart from groceries, cheese, and bread, the wine shop here has a good collection and the attendant will help you select the perfect bottle to take with you. Paris is a great city to picnic in, weather permitting. Take some sandwiches and a bottle of wine, and park yourself on a bench or park and enjoy the day.

The oldest clock in Paris was built in the year 1370! It is on the corner of the Palais de Justice building

 As for people, since we said Bonjour and Merci to everyone we spoke with, we didn't have any rude encounters. A passerby even stopped to help with the ticket machine.

Since we were constantly walking, or standing in queues, or jostling with the crowds, and tired, we didn't really get to experience the 'romance' of Paris. Maybe next time.

Schwetzingen Palace Gardens

We reached the castle (around an hour's drive from Heidelberg) around 5 in the evening. We were told that the evening tickets are for minimal prices but would just let you in the garden, not the castle. We later found out that the interiors are not the highlight of the place at all. Moreover, the gardens have enough to keep you occupied for the day, or you could just take a quiet stroll with the music of the birds lingering in the air.

Schwetzingen was the summer residence of the Electors Palatine Karl III Philip and Charles Theodore. This hunting lodge was transformed into a luxurious summer residence with elaborate gardens. It was originally built around 1350, but the alterations as we see them now began around 1697.

There are numerous sections of the garden - from the Turkish gardens with a mosque (for decorative purposes only), to a bath house, and an aviary just to name a few. Many statues and water fountains dot the magnificent garden and there is even a hedge maze for those who don't mind getting lost.

Nicolas de Pigage built the mosque with its central building, the two minarets and prayer courses in 1779. The interior of the mosque consists of a circular central space, which is divided by columns and niches. Inscriptions in Arabic and German language refer to virtues such as wisdom, diligence and discretion. All Arab texts have errors in the dotting of the consonants and the vocalization - a failure of the German mason. It is testimony to the then prevailing interest in the Arab world. It was not built for the purpose of religion but as evidence of tolerance of the enlightened owner Carl Theodor.

Pigage proposed to build the Temple of Mercury in the form of a romantic ruin, as a counterpart to the mosque.Construction began in 1784 - the latest structure in the Schwetzingen palace gardens. Like all other buildings, the Temple of Mercury has multiple meanings: it is a temple, but as a ruin is also reminiscent of a grave, reminding us of the transient nature of life. 

The gardens are dotted with sculptures depicting various themes, from hunting to figures from mythology. Around 86 figures from sandstone, marble or lead have been preserved within the grounds.



The hunting of stags is the theme of the great figures of deer fountain basins in the garden. Artist Peter Anton von Verschaffelt created the powerful figures as a reminder of the origins of the castle. The ones in the garden are only copies though. The originals are kept inside the castle in the Orangerie.

There's a cafe near the entrance but it closes early, so bring plenty of water and some snacks if you plan to stay for a while. Stay off the grass as a general rule and take plenty of breaks on the many benches, even if just to admire the surroundings.

We spent around 3 hours here and hadn't covered even half the grounds.It is easy to lose track of time here.

Danube River God by Peter Anton von Verschaffelt.

Venturing Out

Some people are their own harshest critics. It is one of the reasons I never thought of selling stuff I make - art or food. There are people with much better work out there. But since friends and family have been insisting that it is good enough to sell, I thought why not take a chance. With that I started a Facebook store called Happy Dog Designs of some of my artwork. And if it doesn't work, I can always say "I told you so"!

Heidelberg Schloss

The ruin of Heidelberg Castle is the town's most famous landmark and sits beautifully nestled among the hills along the river.

Mark Twain, the American author, described the Heidelberg Castle in his 1880 travel book A Tramp Abroad:
“A ruin must be rightly situated, to be effective. This one could not have been better placed. It stands upon a commanding elevation, it is buried in green woods, there is no level ground about it, but, on the contrary, there are wooded terraces upon terraces, and one looks down through shining leaves into profound chasms and abysses where twilight reigns and the sun cannot intrude. Nature knows how to garnish a ruin to get the best effect. One of these old towers is split down the middle, and one half has tumbled aside. It tumbled in such a way as to establish itself in a picturesque attitude. Then all it lacked was a fitting drapery, and Nature has furnished that; she has robed the rugged mass in flowers and verdure, and made it a charm to the eye. The standing half exposes its arched and cavernous rooms to you, like open, toothless mouths; there, too, the vines and flowers have done their work of grace. The rear portion of the tower has not been neglected, either, but is clothed with a clinging garment of polished ivy which hides the wounds and stains of time. Even the top is not left bare, but is crowned with a flourishing group of trees & shrubs. Misfortune has done for this old tower what it has done for the human character sometimes – improved it."

You could walk up to the castle if you're up for it, but we took the funicular railway which is basically a cable tram that goes up a steep slope. The tram line is relatively new as it was re-built in 1962 (the original was built in 1890). While the lower tram is modern, the upper tram was rebuilt as it was originally designed.

For visiting the castle, you only need tickets for the lower tram. The ticket includes the tram ride and entry to the Palace gardens. For a tour of the palace interiors, you need to buy separate tickets which include a guided tour.

The Castle gardens are well kept and offer a stupendous view of the town below and on a clear day, you can even see the city of Manheim, but like our hosts pointed out, there isn't much to see there!

The castle was built in 1214 and since then has been expanded, re-built, and suffered some destruction (including being hit by lightning twice).

On a visit to Heidelberg in 1838, the French author Victor Hugo took particular pleasure in strolling among the ruins of the castle. He summarised its history in this letter:

“But let me talk of its castle. (This is absolutely essential, and I should actually have begun with it.) What times it has been through! Five hundred years long it has been victim to everything that has shaken Europe, and now it has collapsed under its weight. That is because this Heidelberg Castle, the residence of the counts Palatine, who were answerable only to kings, emperors, and popes, and was of too much significance to bend to their whims, but couldn't raise his head without coming into conflict with them, and that is because, in my opinion, that the Heidelberg Castle has always taken up some position of opposition towards the powerful. Circa 1300, the time of its founding, it starts with a Thebes analogy; in Count Rudolf and Emperor Ludwig, these degenerate brothers, it has its Eteocles and its Polynices [warring sons of Oedipus]. Then the prince elector begins to grow in power. In 1400 the Palatine Ruprecht II, supported by three Rhenish prince electors, deposes Emperor Wenceslaus and usurps his position; 120 years later in 1519, Count Palatine Frederick II was to create the young King Charles I of Spain Emperor Charles V."

The castle gardens is a great way to spend an afternoon just enjoying the view and taking a stroll. It was once even termed as the 8th Wonder of the World, but due to wars and natural disasters, its maintenance was grossly ignored. The tower you see on the way to the garden, the powder turret (where gunpowder was stored), was blown apart by the French in 1793. Another tower that housed prisoners was also destroyed.

The gardens, called Hortus Palatinus, or Garden of the Palatinate was commissioned by Frederick V in 1614 for his wife Elizabeth Stuart. The Elizabeth Gate near the entrance was built the following year (overnight by some accounts) as a birthday present for Elizabeth. Within the compound is a prominent fountain with the statue of Father Rhine (or Neptune, depends on which guide you're reading) symbolizing Germany's river.

Our next stop was the tour of the Castle interiors. As soon as you enter through the Gate Tower, you are faced with a magnificent facade of Friedrich building, which is in a comparatively good condition. The statues that adorn the building are a tribute to the rulers. Within the walls are elaborately decorated rooms that have been recreated to reflect the glory of its times.

The Palace Chapel (Burgkapelle) is also in this building and although not huge, it is very serene.

Just adjacent to it is the Ottheinrich building which at one time were the living quarters and also had a the Emperor's Hall. Just the facade that remains now and it stands hauntingly like a screen door giving glimpses of the blue skies beyond.

The statues on it range of those from the Bible, famous Romans, and some depicting the Christian Virtues. Construction was started by Otto Heinrich during his short reign from 1556 to 1559, and later completed by Fredrick III ten years later.

The ground floor is the only floor that has a ceiling, and this houses the German Apothecary Museum. It gives you a fascinating insight of the evolution of pharmacies. The museum store, among other items has some tin 'medicine' boxes on sale which you can fill with mint (although we didn't like the mint we got from there).

Finally, at the end of the tour, you will come to the famous wine barrels in the cellar. It once held tithe wine (wine that was owed to the ruler by his subjects) and all kinds of wine were mixed into the barrel. At the time, drinking water was mostly contaminated, and wine was the preferred drink as most of the germs were killed during the fermentation process.

The current barrel,constructed in 1750, is the third incarnation and has a capacity of 2,20,000 litres. The original barrel was destroyed during the 30 Years War, and the second one during the War of Palatine Succession. The platform on top of the barrel was made for dancing, and the statue of the court jester, Clemens Perkeo, watches over this treasure.

There is also a bar here for those who get tempted. We decided to go down to the town for our fare.