Bridges over the Siene

The Siene divides Paris into the Left and Right Bank and with many monuments alongside, a cruise down the river is the fastest way to take in the City of Lights. Bateaux-Mouches is one of the best known service providers and offers plenty of cruising options. They have a dinosaur skeleton sculpture near the ticketing office and you can play around trying to take a picture of it from different angles.

Apart from the buildings and Parisian life you see on either bank, the 776 km long river is known for its with 32 bridges within Paris. If you do have the time, it is worth your while to take a walk over some of these and get a closer look at some of the details and sculptures that adorn it. Here's a list of some of them we saw from the ferry (from upstream to downstream).

Text sources: Wikipedia, Paris Pages

The Pont de Sully is actually two separate bridges and was opened in January 1838. It was originally a pair of pedestrian suspension bridges, constructed by the engineer Surville. The current bridge was constructed in 1876 and named in honour of Maximilien de Béthune, Duke of Sully and minister to Henry IV. It was designed by the engineers Paul Vaudrey and Gustave Brosselin. You get splendid views of the Île Saint-Louis and Notre Dame. 

Pont de la Tournelle was built by Paul Landowski and was put in place in 1928, though the bridge dates from 1620, marking what would have been the eastern limit of the fortifications in the middle ages. The statue on the bridge is of St. Genvieve, patron saint of Paris. Genvieve is facing east, which is the direction Attila and the Huns were approaching Paris from when she persuaded the people not to flee. It is also the direction most invaders approach the city. However Landowski, who had fought on the Somme in WWI, would have preferred Genvieve to face Notre Dame, and to represent peace. You can get wonderful views of the back of Notre Dame from this bridge.

The Pont Marie derives its name from the engineer who built it, Christophe Marie. Its construction was spread out over 20 years, from 1614 to 1635. Thus, the bridge is one of the oldest bridges in Paris. In a flood in 1658, 20 houses that were built atop the structure were destroyed and caused the deaths of 60 people. In 1660 a wooden bridge was rebuilt on the same spot, this time with a toll-booth which was designed to raise funds for the complete, stone renovation of the structure. This reconstruction was completed in 1670. In 1740, the remainder of the buildings atop the Pont Marie were removed and in 1769 all building atop the bridge was forbidden. In 1788, houses were barred from construction atop bridges throughout the city. Since the 18th century, the structure has seen little change aside from the flattening of its rise which did not alter the appearance. It is interesting to note each of the five arches of the Pont Marie is unique and that the niches in the abutments have never been filled with statues.

Pont au Double was fist built in 1634 and had a glass gallery, and the patients from the Hotel-Dieu (the oldest hospital in Paris) used it as a nice walk between the Ile de le Cite part of the hospital and the Left Bank part of the hospital. The bridge got its name because non-patients had to pay a double farthing to cross. Although other sources say that the name comes from horsemen having to pay double the toll of pedestrians. The present bridge dates from 1882.

The Petit Pont (Little Bridge) was built in 1853 and is notable for having been destroyed at least 13 times since its original inception. The bridge rebuilt under the reign of Charles VI consisted of three arches and lasted from 1398 until 1408. Designed by the architect Alexandre Michal, and built by Ernest Gariel, the present Petit Pont was begun in 1852 to provide more adequate clearance between the water and the bridge. Thus, the three arches were reduced to one. This new bridge was opened to traffic in 1853

Pont Neuf is considered the oldest bridge in Paris but it actually means new bridge, is actually the oldest bridge in Paris. It dates from 1578. Towards the end of the reign of Louis XVI all the houses on the bridges over the Seine were pulled down. Pont Neuf was the first stone bridge in Paris, the first with pavements, and the first to be built without houses.

Pont Des Arts differs from many other bridges in that it is constructed of metal and is entirely pedestrian. Between 1802 and 1804, under the reign of Napoleon I, a nine-arch metallic bridge for pedestrians was constructed at the location of the present day bridge and was the first metal bridge in Paris. The engineers Louis-Alexandre de Cessart and Jacques Dillon initially conceived of a bridge which would resemble a suspended garden, with trees, banks of flowers, and benches. The present bridge was built between 1981 and 1984 "identically" according to the plans of Louis Arretche, who had decided to reduce the number of arches from nine to seven

The Pont Royal is the third oldest bridge in Paris. Pierre Pidou directed the construction of a wooden toll-bridge in 1632 which would be called Pont Sainte-Anne (in deference to Anne of Austria) or Pont Rouge (due to its colour). Fragile, this bridge of fifteen arches would be repaired for the first time in 1649, completely redone two years later, burnt in 1654, flooded in 1656, completely rebuilt in 1660, propped up in 1673 and finally carried away by a flood in February 1684. It was finally reconstructed between October 25, 1685, and June 13, 1689, this time with stone, receiving complete financing from the king Louis XIV; it was the king who gave it the name Pont Royal. In the 18th century, the bridge was a popular meeting place for various festivities and celebrations.

The Passerelle Léopold-Sédar-Senghor was originally made in cast iron and was inaugurated by Napoleon III in 1861. It's named after the June 1859 French victory of the Battle of Solferino. Having weakened over time (particularly due to barges crashing into it), it was demolished and replaced in 1961 with a steel footbridge, demolished in its turn in 1992. Crossing the Seine with a single span and no piers, this metallic bridge is architecturally unique and covered in exotic woods (Tabebuias, a Brazilian tree also used for outdoor flooring at the Bibliothèque nationale de France) which gives it a light and warm appearance. Its solidity is, however, never in doubt - at either end, its foundations are in the form of concrete pillars extending 15m into the ground, and the structure itself is made up of six 150 tonne components built by the Eiffel engineering company

Pont de la Concorde is a neoclassical bridge by the architect Jean-Rodolphe Perronet, commissioned in 1787. Construction continued in the midst of the French Revolution, using the dimension stones taken from the demolished Bastille (taken by force on 14 July 1789) for its masonry. In 1810, Napoléon I placed along the sides of the bridge the statues of eight French generals killed in battle during the campaigns of the First French Empire. On the Bourbon Restoration these were replaced with twelve monumental marble statues, including four of the "grands ministres", four royal generals and four sailors. However, this collection of statues proved too heavy for the bridge, and Louis-Philippe I had them removed and transferred to Versailles. The bridge had to be widened for the increasing traffic in 1932.

Pont Alexandre III is the most ornate bridge in Paris, and is constructed from steel and stone in the Beaux-Arts style with its exuberant Art Nouveau lamps, cherubs, nymphs and winged horses at either end. It was built between 1896 and 1900 and is named after Tsar Alexander III, who had concluded the Franco-Russian Alliance in 1892. His son Nicholas II laid the foundation stone in October 1896. The style of the bridge reflects that of the Grand Palais, to which it leads on the right bank. The construction of the bridge is a marvel of 19th century engineering, consisting of a 6 metres (20 ft) high single span steel arch. The design was subject to strict controls that prevented the bridge from obscuring the view of the Champs-Élysées.

The Pont des Invalides is the lowest bridge traversing the river. In 1821, engineer Claude Navier conceived a technologically revolutionary bridge that crossed the Seine in one single reach without any point of support in between. Due to cracks in some parts of the bridge and gradual settling, the project was abandoned before the bridge even made it into service. In 1829, two engineers, de Verges and Bayard de la Vingtrie, completed the construction of a proper suspension bridge supported by two piers and three porticos, each 20 m in height. In 1854, the bridge was demolished  and Paul-Martin Gallocher de Lagalisserie and Jules Savarin used the existing piers of the former suspension bridge and a newly-added central pier to build an arch bridge in masonry on the same site. The new pier was adorned with sculptures in two allegorical themes: the Land Victory by Victor Vilain upriver; the Maritime Victory by Georges Diébolt downstream, whereas the two old piers were adorned with sculptures of military trophies bearing the imperial coat of arms, both the work of Astyanax-Scévola Bosio.

Passerelle Debilly was commissioned to accommodate visitor traffic to the 1900 World's Fair across the Seine. Its architect, Jean Résal, also designed the Pont Alexandre III and the Viaduc d'Austerlitz. It is named after General Jean Louis Debilly of the French First Empire who was killed in the Battle of Jena in 1806. The footbridge is built on a metallic framework resting on two stone piers at the riverbanks, and decorated with dark green ceramic tiles arranged in a fashion that suggests the impression of waves. The bridge was repainted in 1991 and its cladding resurfaced with hard tropical wood in 1997. In 1989, a German diplomat working for the Secret Service of the Democratic Republic of Germany was found dead on this footbridge, several days after the Fall of the Berlin Wall. As it turned out, the footbridge was used as a secret gathering place for the secret service agents of East Germany during the Cold War.

Pont d'Iéna was ordered in 1807 by Napoléon I and was named after his victory in 1806 at the Battle of Jena. Prussian General Blücher wanted to destroy the bridge before the Battle of Paris in 1814, but was persuaded not to by the Allied forces. The structure was designed with five arches, each with an arc length of 28 m, and four intermediate piers. The tympana along the sides of the bridge had been originally decorated with imperial eagles conceptualized by François-Frédéric Lemot and sculpted by Jean-François Mouret. The eagles were replaced with the royal letter "L" soon after the fall of the First Empire in 1815 but in 1852, when Napoléon III ascended the throne of the Second Empire, new imperial eagles, this time by the chisel of Antoine-Louis Barye, replaced the royal "L". Put in place in 1853, on the two ends of the bridge, are four sculptures sitting on top of four corresponding pylons: a Gallic warrior by Antoine-Augustin Préault and a Roman warrior by Louis-Joseph Daumas by the Right Bank; an Arab warrior by Jean-Jacques Feuchère and a Greek warrior by François Devault by the Left Bank.

Pont de Bir-Hakeim, formerly the pont de Passy, is made of steel and was constructed between 1903 and 1905, replacing an earlier bridge that had been erected in 1878. An arch bridge, it is 237 metres (777 ft) long and 24.7 metres (81 ft) wide. The bridge has two levels: one for motor vehicles and pedestrians, and a viaduct above, through which passes the Metro. Many commemorative plates decorate the viaduct bridge, including several dedicated to soldiers fallen in Belgium during the Second World War. In addition, the central arch of the viaduct is decorated with four monumental stone statues in high-relief: figures of Science and Labor by Jules-Felix Coutan, and Electricity and Commerce by Jean Antoine Injalbert. Originally named the Viaduc de Passy, it was renamed in 1948 to commemorate the Battle of Bir Hakeim, fought by Free French forces against the German Afrika Korps in 1942.

Monumental Paris - Pantheon and Arc de Triomphe

Paris is filled to the brim with monuments of historical and/or artistic importance. It is difficult to walk 2 steps without stumbling upon one. The Pantheon is one such imposing structure we couldn't miss. Even as you stand outside and look at this impressive structure, you can't help but also admire the beauty of the surrounding buildings and roads.

There was some restoration work going on but thankfully, none of the sections inside were closed or covered in scaffolding. 

Before you even enter, you have to stop and take in the grand entrance with it's intimidating columns and sculpted designs. The relief on the pediment is inscribed with the motto: Aux grands hommes, la patrie reconnaissante (To great men, the grateful homeland) which is in reference to the great French personalities interred in the crypts below.

The first look surprises you because you wouldn't have though it would be so spacious and grand going by the façade. The triple dome holds you in awe till you manage to take your eyes from it and explore the other treasures here.

There are many sculptures, each with its historical significance, such as the tribute to the orators and statesmen for their contribution to the Battle of Valmy that was one of the most significant battles during the Revolution in 1792. It was sculpted by Laurent Marqueste in 1903 and the group of speakers and publicists of the Restoration is composed of Benjamin Constant, Count Pierre Serre, Casimir Perrier, Armand Carrel, General Maximilien Foy, Jacques-Antoine Manuel, the Vicomte François-René de Chateaubriand.

The centrepiece is “The National Convention” by Francois Leon-Sicard done in 1920. It features soldiers on the right of Marianne, the symbol of France, and members of the National Convention on the left. Above in the half dome (done 1874 to 1885) by Ernest Hebert is Christ teaching the angel of France with St Genevieve and Joan d'Arc to the left and the City of Paris kneeling to the right.

There are also many impressive murals on the walls like the one by Jules Eugène Lenepveu depicting the significant moments in the life of Joan of Arc. It is actually a set of four 15 feet high panels, and four other smaller paintings.

As mentioned above, the Pantheon also houses a crypt with the who's who of France's elite. Voltaire (pictured above), Rousseau, Louis Braille, and Victor Hugo to name a few...you are in esteemed company

Of course, no visit to Paris is complete without visiting the iconic Arc de Triomphe. It is in the centre of a beautifully laid out crossroads with roads leading to it from all directions like a 12-pronged star. This makes it is a bit of a challenge to cross the road here with the absence of a traffic signal. We didn't go up to the viewing platform or the museum, but sat near one of the pillars and took in this magnificent city on a delightful summer's evening.

Quaint Paris

Every two steps we took in Paris there was something to discover.We had to focus and keep moving to see just a few spots on our list otherwise we wouldn't have gone too far. That was one of the many reasons we have to go back there to take in every nook and cranny, new or historical, that make this city interesting and full of surprises.

These are just a few of the wonderful stops we took.

The Fontaine Saint-Michel, constructed in 1860 by Gabriel Davioud is a delightful fountain and a nice meeting/resting place. The central figure is the Archangel Michael wrestling with the devil.

Doors are delightful. It is interesting to see different kinds all around the world, with often unique door knobs and handles. These examples were just a handful we managed to photograph, but there were so many more picturesque ones that we couldn't walk over each time to take a picture of it. Kept our focus!

 There are several signposts for the Metro stations that are worthy of a second look. The Metro's original Art Nouveau entrances are iconic, designed by Hector Guimard in 1899. Out of 180 original signposts designed, only about 80 or so remain. The rest were replaced in a wave of modernization without realizing the artistic importance of these objects that add to the charm of Paris.

Art Nouveau is an international style of decoration and architecture in the 1880s and 1890s that drew inspiration from nature and natural forms. The gate below on the left has curvilinear lines and was inspired by vines and flowers. Symmetrical, floral lights frame the Metro sign, both lighting the entrance and advertising the Métropolitan.

The Métro signposts were a 1920s innovation of the Nord-Sud company. The Val d'Osne design consists of a globe-shaped lamp atop a "MÉTRO" sign surrounded by an ornate cast-iron frieze. The simpler Dervaux lampposts as on the right below, (named after their architect) became common in the 1930s, following the contemporary trend away from decorative embellishment.

Avanti la Musica is a quaint little shop selling wind-up musical boxes at the street opposite the Notre Dame on Quai de la Tournelle. The owner is a delightful lady who'll have a little chat with you in English and show you some nice pieces, all of which are made by her husband himself.

Parisians love their pets! There were many roaming the streets with their owners. Also, they realise that begging with a dog at your side gets more money in the hat. This little one was tied to a bench with a note saying his mom was inside the building and will be out soon.

The Parapluies Simon had gorgeous designer (read expensive) umbrellas on display but we didn't venture in. The sign board held more fascination for us.

 Night time was even more mesmerising. The Luxor Obelix at Place de la Concorde was a gift from Egypt and originally at the entrance to Amon Temple in Luxor, Egypt. It is more than 3,300 years old and is decorated with hieroglyphics portraying the reigns of the Pharaohs Ramses II and Ramses III. The square where it's housed was infamous as many revolutionaries were beheaded here. If you look closely, it also has an assembly manual etched on the side since it had to be dismantled while shipping.

The Grand Palais looks stunning at night with the French flag fluttering at the top of the dome.

Finally, the Fontaines de la Concorde are 2 stunning fountains placed next to each other in front of the Tuileries gardens. They were designed by Jacques Ignace Hittorff in 1840. The Maritime Fountain commemorates the maritime commerce and industry of France, and the Fountain of the Rivers (below) commemorates navigation and commerce on the rivers of France. The central figures were created in cast-iron, whereas the 12 Triton and mermaid statues (6 in each fountain) were cast in bronze. The fountain below is adorned with allegorical figures representing the Rhone and the Rhine, the arts of the harvesting of flowers and fruits, harvesting and grape growing; and the geniuses of river navigation.

So much to see, so little time!

Palace Turned Art Mecca - The Louvre

Art and it's history is always fascinating and till now I've only seen it on a screen. I didn't realise what I was missing. Seeing these treasure first hand is something that cannot be replicated by any screen or poster print. After all these years, the paintings seem to have a life of their own and the more you look at them, the more they surprise you. The sculptures have to be seen to be believed. Cold, hard marble seems like a fluffy pillow or a delicate fabric, and statues look almost life-life if it wasn't for the lack of colour on it.

We had to wait over an hour in line to get in the pyramid - we didn't want to get a pre-paid museum pass because we knew this would be the only place we'd use it so it didn't make sense. If it wasn't scorching hot, we would've relaxed by the fountains but there was also too much ground to cover.

Just as you enter the complex you realize the enormity of what lays ahead. There is no way you can cover the whole place in a day, so don't even try. The overcrowding and limited time prevented us from enjoying every work of art. But how amazing it would be to live here and visit it at leisure to take in the beauty and history of all the pieces on display?

The Mona Lisa was a let down. Because of the barricades, you can't get near it for a clear view, and all the pushing and shoving in the overcrowded viewing area makes you beat a hasty retreat.

Apart from the artefacts, the palace itself is a sight to behold - the architecture, paintings on the ceilings, carved interiors - you need to keep swivelling your head all the way around to not miss anything.

Highlights:
- Marble sculptures - Venus de Milo, Michaelangelo's Slaves, Winged Victory, Sleeping Hermaphrodite, Cupid's Kiss
- Paintings - Portraits (like the very cute Monsieur Vallet by Pierre-Paul Prud'Hon), Sauvage's 3-D painting of Bacchanalia, Napoleon's Coronation
- Artefacts - The Islamic Art Collection, the Sphinx
- Architecture - The Henri II Staircase, Medieval Louvre

Paris - 2 Churches

Paris is overflowing with churches from different eras and style periods. Even of you are not of a religious bend of mind, the beauty of these structures are enough to draw you to them. In our short stay, we could just take the time to go to two of the magnificent works of art.

Notre-Dame is a Catholic cathedral and known to many as the setting for Victor Hugo's great drama - The Hunchback of Notre-Dame. It is dedicated to Mother Mary and has a beautiful Pieta sculpture at the altar. We had visited on August 15th which is when Paris celebrates Assumption Day.

The gorgeous Gothic Cathedral is identifiable from afar and you try to spot the bell tower. There were huge crowds gathered for the mass to celebrate the day. As you enter, you are awed at the openness inside. The organ's music reverberates through the structure and is impressive. The interiors is lined with precious works of art and history.

The entrance to the towers and treasury were closed due to the mass, but that too was an experience we felt was unmissable. There are enough artefacts to see on the ground itself - the gorgeous stained-glass windows, the beautiful sculptures, and the ancient paintings, among other relics.

We then strolled along the street-side shops selling old books and posters, and settled in for a Parisian-style 2 hour lunch in an al fresco restaurant.

Another notable medieval Gothic chapel is the Sainte Chapelle. This 13th century building has awesome stained-glass windows, and if you happen to go in the afternoon when the sun filters through them, you will leave very impressed. The contrasting rich blue interiors and the gilded elaborate altar add to the beauty.

As you keep looking up to marvel at the many beauties, don't forget to look down at your feet and notice the beautiful flooring as well.